"Remember, the way to discover Toulouse is to always look up"...This was the advice I was given by my kind host, before setting off to explore La Ville Rose. I assumed she was referring to some architectural feature of the rooves or something worthy of observation, but in retrospect, I think her mantra's significance is far broader.
After spending a short week here, I realized this phrase embodies a certain humility and tangible, collective optimism which permeates the streets and boulevards here. Something in the Toulousains' down-to-earth attitude. It does feel like a place who's inhabitants are 'looking up'.
The architecture itself projects a somewhat humble outlook. Brick facades and earthy hues, domes and bridges, they are somehow welcoming, lacking pomp and hostility. Toulouse is a low city, nevermind skyscrapers, you'll be hard-pressed to spot any buildings rising above three stories here. The town boasts a notable lack of Haussmanniam architecture which adorns, or (an unpopular opinion one may adopt after an overdose of French cities) plagues most major cities in France. Toulouse is not pretentious, and yet it is teeming with culture and heritage. An ironic humility, considering the city's rich history in flight and aviation, home to Airbus and many more branches of the aeronautic industry. Innovation literally takes flight here.
I met a city with an authentic, playful personality, not taking itself too seriously. Humble and happy. It is in the name: nicknamed 'La Ville Rose' or 'The Pink City' for the ubiquitous terracotta bricks here, and I really do think she wears rose-tinted lenses.
And so, with a Toulousain spring in my step, accompanied by a knowledgeable friend and guide and keeping in mind my host's advice, I set out to discover the pink city. Below are some findings, highlights and unmissable experiences I recommend to the tourist in Toulouse.
Saunter through the centre ville. Grab a café noisette, breathe in the bustling streets and lively atmosphere. Admire the city's pallet, shades of earthy red, warm orange and dusky pink brick. Or take an amble along the picturesque quays of the Garrone.
Discover La Halle De La Machine. A living museum on the outskirts of Toulouse, the story of an incredible workshop and artistic movement. La Halle houses a collection of performance machines, including huge, incredible animatronic creatures, true feats of art and engineering, which perform an array of functions to entertain, inspire, and tell their own weird and wacky stories. The playful, humorous exhibits feature a gigantic spider, an artificial snow generator, a bread catapult, plenty of automated instruments, and even a majestic, living, moving and breathing minotaur which parades the outside esplanade and surrounding streets several times a day. This wonderful hub of creativity will enchant adults and children alike. And to add to the excitement, they often host outdoor DJ sets and parties in the summer!
Get lost in the Muséum de Toulouse. Located next to the Jardin des Plantes, the city's natural history museum is well worth a visit. I spent a pleasant morning here wandering its fascinating exhibitions and beautiful botanical gardens and greenhouses. From the earth's geology to the human genome, there will something new to learn about. The gift shop is rather splendid too.
Ride the Grande Roue for a fresh perspective on the city. Take a seat on this riverside Ferris wheel for grand vistas of the Garrone river and the surrounding quartiers. Perhaps one of the only occasions when I'd encourage a visitor to look down, not up!
Explore the hip, riverside Quartier de la Daurade. This grungier neighbourhood was one of my favourite areas of Toulouse. I recommend sampling some artisan ice cream, taking a class at the wonderful Peacock Yoga studios which you'll find nestled in an exquisite little courtyard, and if you fancy getting a tattoo like I did, head to Spyke Tattoo, located right in the heart of this trendy quarter.
Purchase some picnic provisions in one of Toulouse's many indoor markets. Fresh artisan sourdough loaves, voted some of the best in France. Peppered saucisses de Toulouse, slices of cured ham. Mountains of cheese with variety to suit every taste. Crate-fulls of ripe fruit and vegetables. I'll leave it at that.
Visit Les Abattoirs. A cultural hub and museum of modern art, inside the city's converted municipal slaughterhouses. Don't let that put you off though, this quirky museum boasts a rich collection of modern art in its many forms, sculpture, textile, photo and film, in a fantastic range of permanent and temporary exhibits.
Eat and drink. I had my fair share of feasts, and frankly there are too many quality restaurants and bars to list here! Whether you're into sushi or Spanish tapas, late-night Lebanese or local specialties, you'll find what you're looking for in Toulouse. There are just two locations which I cannot resist mentioning!
The Canaille Club, located in an industrial estate on the outskirts of Toulouse, is an innovative new dining concept. It is primarily a collection of food trucks and street food vendors, the culinary creations of which can be ordered via an app and are delivered by an army of trendy colourful tee-sporting waiters. The idea of virtual ordering is unusual, but the outdoor dining space, incorporating converted shipping containers and disused industrial warehouses adorned with fairy lights, has a buzzing and friendly atmosphere. For more traditional terrace nightlife and a mingle with the locals, head to the Café Concorde, a central spot perfect for L’apéro!
And finally...Quite unrelated to Toulouse but still rather exciting I think, I got my first tattoo here! A discreet reminder on my ankle to not saunter in my own strength.
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