Lacework of Morlaix
"C'est la dentelle de Morlaix", my mother remarks. We spot a red car spattered bonnet-to-boot with seaghull's merde(no need for an anglophone translation). As proud of her jeux de mots as she is, we soon encounter a jewel of a town, and of a region, far from having anything merdique about it.
This August, after exploring Brittany's idyllic Presqu'ile de Crozon( post coming soon), our clan of four plus a few foamy surfboards decided to take the tiny yellow Fiat 500 for a spin northwards, in Northern Finistere and Cote d'Armor. Several hours of nausea and miles of winding country lanes later, we were amazed to discover a province of France we had driven past so many times before but never taken the time to stop and appreciate. Here are my highlights from the next few days that followed.
Morlaix
Underneath the mighty viaduct completed in 1863, cobbled streets wind around beautiful 16th century half-timber houses, each unique in colour and intricate features, yet unified in their distinct architecture, like Breton dancers in a Fest-Noz. On this late August morning, they emit a historic romance of some sort, a charm of a by-gone era. It's tangible, in the marine wind which whistles through the trees, in the precarious-looking timber structures of the overhanging houses, in the smiling, sun-tanned faces we encounter.
We stroll into the center along the marina, housing sailing boats which float peacefully, awaiting the call of the ocean. The marina's sides are lined with perfectly organised baskets of flowers, explosions of fuchsia and apricot in the summer sunshine.
Following a delectable croûte à thé on the main square, we delve deeper into this living heritage and discover an array of delightful boutiques, as if hand-picked to entice and inspire, ranging from a small bookshop with a brilliant selection of action and adventure literature, to independent clothes retailers and a vintage thrift-store, filled with retro comics and a retro-comic enthusiast who can recite to the curious visitor the publication date of any bandes dessinée there, and the location he dug it up in.
Naturally, we spent the majority of our morning staring into the shop windows of the Notaires, or estate agents, on the look-out for a reason to come back again and again to this medieval jewel. It appears my parents are at it again, looking to buy a holiday home. If any of these projects were actually followed through we would be the bankrupt owners of several hundred properties across Europe.
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L'Abri du Pecheur, Carantec
We discovered this independent restaurant on an evening stroll in the seaside resort of Carantec. As the amber sun set over the peaceful channel waters and the Island of Callot, we embarked on a truly gastronomic adventure, surrounded by scents of delectable dishes rushed to tables by waiting staff, and the sounds of chattering families and glasses toasted in celebration. A sumptuous starter of smoked salmon crémeux with a light salad was swiftly followed by the coin du boucher(all meat sourced in France): tender steak served with buckwheat crepe crumbs, pumpkin purée, potatoes and sauce, accompanied by crisp Breton artisan cider Kerné. To top it all off, the culinary odyssey concluded with a classic Île flottante, or floating island, poached meringue floating on crème anglaise. The extremely friendly waiting staff are to note, alongside very efficient service. Three course menu prices range from 21 to 32 euros, with a children's menu available for 10 euros. An à la carte menu is also available with individual dishes ranging from curry mussels to duck magret and homemade fois gras.
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Plage de Goas Lagorn
A glorious sun-drenched stretch of fine golden sand, gazing out onto the waters of la Manche, nestled between gently sloping sand dunes and the pine tree-peppered cliffs of the Pink Granite Coast. This west-facing sheltered bay is ideal for families, as it is visited daily by gentle waves, and surveyed by coastguards for most of the summer months. With a car park close by, it is easily accessible and only about a 20 minute drive from the nearest town, Lannion.
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Accommodation-Manoir de Lanleya
The base for our adventures was one of six cosy gites situated on the grounds of the Lanleya Manor in the rural hamlet of Lanleya, found quite by chance on Airbnb. Hidden in the rolling green hills of Breton countryside and only about a 15 minute drive from the coast, this traditional stone cottage transports guests to past centuries for an extremely reasonable price, and is equipped with bathroom, kitchen and living area and sleeps up to five. An orchard can be found on the grounds, behind the gite's convenient terrace. It also boasts a picturesque view of the surrounding fields and forest, and an absolutely breath-taking vista of the cosmos on a starry summer night, thanks to the lack of light pollution. Hosts were friendly and discrete, giving simple, clear instructions concerning the property.
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