It is big. Grey. Austere. It makes me sad. Having visited Israel and Palestine, I adore both peoples on the sides of this imposing concrete fence. They don’t always tolerate each other, that’s true, hence the construction of this. I understand the need for boundaries in our messy world, but overall, the general sentiment I have experienced in both camps is affection for the other, and the desire for reconciliation. People are people. Kind, generous, interesting, silly, gorgeous, creative people. People are just people, everywhere.
Visiting this infamous wall, witnessing it with my own eyes where it borders Bethlehem, that ancient town in which God manifested himself as man, was a surprisingly inspiring experience. There is a dark slab of concrete and imposing watchtowers, for sure, but it is adorned with inscriptions and images of hope. With calls for love, for understanding and care for our neighbour. I feel like Jesus’ famed words ‘Love thy neighbour’ take on a new meaning here. Actually they were pretty revolutionary even when he first uttered them, when this soil was as divided, if not more than it is now, between Jews and Samaritans. But this notion of simple love for the other prevails in hearts around Canaan today, in the street art murals (some of which were painted by Bristolian Banksy!) displayed here. Beauty from ashes. For me, both ancient and modern Bethlehem somehow represent hope.
An amusing story, I lost my Visa entry card which is necessary to get past the military checkpoints when crossing from the West Bank back into Israel. My palms and temples began to sweat as the border agent questioned me on where this pass was. I assured him, unconvincingly, that I had one on me, but just couldn’t find it at that moment. A passing thought saved me, as I wandered back through the corridor of the checkpoint, and stumbled upon my visa card on the floor. It had fallen out of my pocket as I’d clumsily gotten my passport out. I didn’t want to be stuck behind the border, I had dinner planned with Ibrahim (see previous post). Well, lesson learnt, don’t keep important documents in an open pocket, especially when impassable concrete walls are involved.
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